Tour of the Unknown Coast: Ride Report
On Friday May 4th we drove 7 1/2 hours
south to the redwoods and our date with destiny: The 2012 Tour of the
Unknown Coast. We arrived in time to register and eat the spaghetti
dinner being served by one of the event sponsors.
We're Official |
After dinner
we drove another 30 minutes south to the Redcrest Resort. Redcrest is
located “In the Heart of the Redwoods on the Avenue of the Giants.” In
other words, directly on the bike ride route. Not only that, it’s about
25 miles upstream from the start of the ride. This was perfect for our
plan, which was, that I would skip the first section of the ride – which
is primarily flat and not very interesting – to save my legs for a more
challenging and scenic section of the route. From Redcrest, it’s 50
hilly miles to the coast. Beyond that, the ride continues another 5
miles along the coast, then cuts back inland over extremely steep hills
and 15 miles to the finish. Our scheme depended on Chris finishing before me, then driving backward along the route to scoop me up wherever I happened to be. My goal was to reach the coast before he picked me up and I didn’t
want to burn my energy on flat miles. So starting at Redcrest was a
perfect option.
Redcrest Resort |
The
night before the ride was typical for us --- sleepless. We’ve ridden in
other events and never slept well the night before. With that in mind,
this night we each popped an Ambien, specially ordered by Chris from his
doctor. Secure in the knowledge that there was no way we’d wake up
prematurely from an Ambien we snuggled in for the night. Until about 4
a.m., at which time we woke up, laying there resigned to our fate until
the alarm went off at 6:00. Sigh.
Saturday
was beautiful, a lucky break this time of year. Chris was riding the
full century (100 miles) so at 6:15 a.m. he drove back to the start line
for the 7 a.m. start. I tossed and turned awhile longer, then rolled
out of the cabin a little after 8:00. It was great to be able to walk
out the door and be on the ride route. It was also a little surreal
riding by myself early on a Saturday morning on the Avenue of the
Giants without traffic, pedestrians, or other cyclists. And for a few
minutes I was in the lead of this ride. Because even though
I’d started more than an hour after the official start time, I had a 25
mile head start on the other riders. I calculated it would take the
fastest riders between an hour and fifteen to thirty minutes from their start time to catch up
with me.
Avenue of the Giants |
Sure
enough, after about 10 minutes I heard a growing racket behind me.
There was a loud noise and looking back I could see a headlight. The sun
was shining brightly but it was dim in the redwoods and my mind was
still not fully functioning and I thought, crap, Bubbas (aka, rednecks).
I thought it was locals messing around, racing cars up the Avenue of
the Giants. I considered getting off the road to let them pass. The rumbling noise got louder. It sounded like a train. Then I began to hear voices
and realized it’s not Bubba, it’s the front pack of riders, the ones
who race the ride for the fastest time rather than ride it like mere
mortals. Within minutes I was completely engulfed in a pack of about 30
riders then swoosh, like a mirage they were gone, around the corner,
snaking through the redwoods.
During
the next few minutes some stragglers passed me, then a second, smaller
pack of about a dozen riders. One rider slowed. It was Chris saying
hello. I hello'd him back and told him to go on, his group was riding
away at a fast pace. After a few more of my urgings to go, go, go, he
took off to catch up with his pack, as was our plan all along. I was
on my own again but never alone. From then on there were always other riders in front, passing, or behind me.
The
first 15 miles of my ride was mostly flat. Then I reached Panther
Gap, a 7 mile climb. For one or two miles the climbing was very
difficult. Doubts crept in: I’m too tired; I’m not fit enough; how the
hell am I going to ride in Europe? But in the third mile I settled
down, found my rhythm, and from there was able to slowly but surely make my way to the top. It was a pretty tough climb. At
the top I stopped briefly to pat myself on the back and revel in my glory (hey, did anyone see me climb that thing!),
then I put on my vest for the long descent. I’m not a fan of long
descents. The longest descent I’ve ever ridden is 13 miles at the end of
the Mountain Lakes Challenge in Ashland, Oregon. But at least that road
is wide and smooth and has a long run out as it approaches the valley
floor. The backside of Panther Gap is as steep going down as it is going up.
It is steep all the way down, before abruptly ending at a bridge. The
road is narrow and patchy with many switchbacks with tight turns. The
first few miles were fun, then it became painful. I got into my
California Clutch: gripping the handlebars too tightly, pumping
my breaks all the way down; legs tightening; feet pressing into the
pedals as if to help slow me down. The switchbacks seemed endless. Were endless. Eventually I reached the bottom, where I spent a few minutes
encouraging my hands to unclench. Then I rode across the bridge into
Honeydew, cool as a cucumber. In cycling, it’s all about posing.
Honeydew Bridge |
Honeydew is an unincorporated community of seemingly nothing except a
general store and gas station. Wikipedia says 1,000 people live there, but if that’s true, they are well hidden. The Honeydew rest
stop was unmanned and consisted of only water jugs on
picnic tables and some porta-potties. I refilled my bottle and headed off again.
The next
section of the ride varied from flat
to rolling to short climbs, but nothing too strenuous. 15 miles
later I pulled into the lunch stop. For the century (100 mile) riders
this was their 60 mile point. For me it was only half that. But I took
advantage of the opportunity to make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich because there
was yet another 15 miles and 1,500 feet of climbing between me and the coast.
Time to Eat |
Bike Carcasses |
After leaving the lunch stop the climbs came in concentrated stretches and some were steep, but nothing as long as Panther Gap.
Beautiful Ponies Along the Way |
Finally I crested the last hill and and got my first glimpse of the coast. At the bottom of this hill I would ride five miles due north on nearly flat road toward that rock you see way out there in the distance. Easy, right?
Unknown (Lost) Coast |
Except that....The
wind had been kicking up noticeably. Once I landed on the coastal road the
full force of it hit me. I think it would not be an exaggeration to guess that the wind was blowing 25-30 mph that day. From the north. Resulting in a spectacular(ly bad) headwind for cyclists. That nearly flat rode was some of the hardest riding I have ever done. At one point I managed to latch onto a group of riders and got a bit of rest, but after a few minutes they slowly peddled away from me. Later, I clung like grim death onto two guys who were nice enough to let me hide behind them while they pulled me through the wind. All the while I was thinking, this would be a most excellent time to see Chris coming over the horizon in the car. No such luck.
I eventually made it to the rest stop at the bottom of The Wall, the much anticipated and much hyped 'signature climb' of the event. This climb takes you off the coast and back inland over the steepest climbs of the ride. You can see the start of The Wall here -- yes, past the porta-potties -- my brain was too addled to get a better picture. What you can't see is the climb curving to the right and continuing onward and upward.
When I reached the coast I'd already ridden nearly 50 miles, with lots of climbing. Then the headwind. I was totally wiped out when I got to this rest stop. Stick a fork in me, I was done. I was thinking, how the hell am I going to get up that wall? I was thinking, where the hell is Chris? I was thinking, what if he doesn't show up and I have to finish this ride? I knew what the route ahead looked like because I'd driven it before, and it wasn't pretty.
Like everyone else I delayed as long as possible to avoid the climb. I kept looking up and over my shoulder to the ridge above to see if I could see our car. After 15 minutes of dawdling it started to dawn on me that maybe I wanted to try the climb. And besides, wouldn't it be just the slightest bit shameful to load up my bike in the car in front of everyone else?
I'd been watching riders make their way up The Wall and observed that most of them were attacking it 'paperboy' style. Those of you who used to deliver the Washington Post with me will know what I mean. Left, right, left, right across the street making your way along the route. It looked like this:
In cycling circles, paperboying is a sign of weakness. But I was in good company. And besides, who am I, Alberto Contador? So like everyone else I paperboyed the climb, crawling my way up toward the first turn. I was surrounded by others riders doing the same. We all moved in really, really slow motion, like some weird ballet, trying not to run into each other. Here's a bird's eye view of my trail, captured by the GPS on my bike computer. That blue line is me, zig-zagging across the road on the lower half of The Wall.
My immediate goal was the first turn, where I thought I might rest. But when I got there I realized that if I stopped I might not be able to start again. So I kept going. As I made my way up I was thinking, I am going to get to the top, descend to the next rest stop, and sit there until Chris comes, because there is no way I can do the rest of the climbs.
I eventually made it to the rest stop at the bottom of The Wall, the much anticipated and much hyped 'signature climb' of the event. This climb takes you off the coast and back inland over the steepest climbs of the ride. You can see the start of The Wall here -- yes, past the porta-potties -- my brain was too addled to get a better picture. What you can't see is the climb curving to the right and continuing onward and upward.
"The Wall" awaits
|
Like everyone else I delayed as long as possible to avoid the climb. I kept looking up and over my shoulder to the ridge above to see if I could see our car. After 15 minutes of dawdling it started to dawn on me that maybe I wanted to try the climb. And besides, wouldn't it be just the slightest bit shameful to load up my bike in the car in front of everyone else?
Pre-Wall Flowers
|
Paperboying up the Wall |
In cycling circles, paperboying is a sign of weakness. But I was in good company. And besides, who am I, Alberto Contador? So like everyone else I paperboyed the climb, crawling my way up toward the first turn. I was surrounded by others riders doing the same. We all moved in really, really slow motion, like some weird ballet, trying not to run into each other. Here's a bird's eye view of my trail, captured by the GPS on my bike computer. That blue line is me, zig-zagging across the road on the lower half of The Wall.
My immediate goal was the first turn, where I thought I might rest. But when I got there I realized that if I stopped I might not be able to start again. So I kept going. As I made my way up I was thinking, I am going to get to the top, descend to the next rest stop, and sit there until Chris comes, because there is no way I can do the rest of the climbs.
I turned the corner and continued crawling upward. Now I'm on the upper portion of The Wall. This is when the event photographer takes this picture of me, which I call, The Awesome Picture. Note the poor sap behind me who had to stop in the middle of the climb. Cycling is all about gloating.
Minutes later Chris pops into view with our car. I am off my bike in a New York minute. I am done with this ride, in more ways than one. Loading the bike into the car on the side of the road, while other cyclists crawl past, I do feel a little sheepish, like I am cheating. But I really don't care anymore. I am too happy that it's over.
Inside the car Chris has a treat for me. At the finish line which I will never see there is a BBQ dinner awaiting the century riders. Chris has brought a plate back for me. It's not pretty, but that was the best damn BBQ chicken I ever ate.
Climbing upper portion of the Wall: The Awesome Picture |
Minutes later Chris pops into view with our car. I am off my bike in a New York minute. I am done with this ride, in more ways than one. Loading the bike into the car on the side of the road, while other cyclists crawl past, I do feel a little sheepish, like I am cheating. But I really don't care anymore. I am too happy that it's over.
Inside the car Chris has a treat for me. At the finish line which I will never see there is a BBQ dinner awaiting the century riders. Chris has brought a plate back for me. It's not pretty, but that was the best damn BBQ chicken I ever ate.
World's Best BBQ Chicken |
THE STATS:
Chris: 97 miles, 9,138 feet of climbing, 6:27:55 hours of riding, finished 45 of 290 cyclists, top 15%
Ellen: 53 miles, 5,227 feet of climbing, 5:16:44 hours of riding
Next Up: Shelter Cove
Elen,
ReplyDeleteGREAT ride report, thanks! That's a very lot of climbing! Depending on what you want to ride in France I am sure you can devise routes with less than that. Even in the Alps. Didn't I say that confidently for someone who has never put foot to pedal there?
I have heard paperboying referred to as shinering, in reference to the way the Shiners drive their funny tiny cars around in parades. At least on this coast. And did I just learn you grew up in DC? Me too, but when I was a kid only boys got to deliver papers!
Congratulations!!! Kudos!!! Chapeau!!! Great ride and good on you!
Suze