Saturday, January 21, 2012

And Then It Was Winter

Last weekend started like every other. Intensive scouring of online weather sites to see what was coming down the pike so that we could cherry pick the best days and times for rides. After 6-8 weeks of mostly dry days this exercise had almost become blase. But, yikes! Friday was cooperating (dry, mid- to upper 40's, a hint of sun), but after that the forecast was ugly, ugly, ugly. Scrambling to get in the Last Ride before It began, Chris dashed off to the mountains and I headed off on my road bike. Feeling he was ready for prime time, I gave Chris his first photography assignment, which was, take a few pictures during his mountain bike ride. When he returned home both he and his bike were covered in mud and he mumbled something about not wanting to get the camera muddy. So, alas, we have no mountain bike pictures.


The rest of the weekend was a mix of heavy rain and light snow, unsuitable for anything but eating and sleeping. Or hanging out in a paper bag.....,




.....or on someone's shoulder.


It would have also been a great weekend for sitting in cafes drinking coffee but neither of us drink coffee.  We did, however, get over to Kettleman's Bagels for an egg bagel sandwich (me) and a pastrami with gruyere (Chris). 


I experimented with two new stew-like recipes. The first was a mix of sweet potatoes, carrots, and turnips cooked with onions, garlic, cumin, coriander, caraway seeds, cayenne, and chickpeas. On top of this went a squeeze of harissa (spicy!) and cilantro. Except for the harissa, the dish was surprisingly bland. And too watery for my liking. 



The second dish was Moroccan chicken with eggplant and tomatoes. Sliced onions, minced garlic, Hungarian sweet paprika, turmeric, coriander, fennel, cumin, ginger, diced tomatoes, lemon juice, chicken thighs, eggplant. This was tastier and heartier than the turnip stew. It's a keeper.




The following work week the storms intensified dramatically. I know this because the tv reporters told us so. Repeatedly. Down here at sea level where our house sits it was mostly heavy rains. But another 500-1,000 feet up there was enough snow accumulation to set cars bouncing off one another as they tried to negotiate up and down hills. My law firm announced that our closure schedule would follow the Portland Public Schools. It's been more than 30 years since I prayed for school to close, but suddenly there I was rooting for it like a little kid. The more things change, the more they stay the same. We did get lucky one day with a two-hour late opening for the schools. Yipee!


This weekend we did not think there would be any hope of getting out for a ride. But by Saturday we both felt housebound enough that we were determined to go out no matter what. Chris left first to meet up with his group. I left an hour or so later. It was surprisingly 'pleasant' (i.e, not pouring rain) when I left the house, but as I drove toward the hills I saw heavy dark skies, and it began raining pretty heavily on the drive over. I parked at my usual spot and waited until the rain stopped. For although one might get caught in the rain while riding, one must never start a ride in the rain. My plan was to do a quick 10 mile loop to get it done as quickly as possible. 


Determined to finally show that it does indeed rain in Portland, I brought my camera. A few miles into the ride it began to rain again, and I thought grimly to myself, well this is it. A few more miles on I stopped to take a picture. And just as I was about to snap it, the skies cleared and the sun came out. Sun, bright blue skies for the rest of the ride. Sigh.

No, really, it rains all winter in Portland


On the positive side, the sunnier weather made it more pleasant to stop and take pictures. I lucked out with my favorite cow. He was standing right next to the fence. What a photo op!


The first two pictures do not show the truly massive size of this beast. 





I knew I needed something else in the photo to provide some perspective. Hm, what might that be....

World's Biggest Cow
I know you are thinking this a trick of photography, but I assure you, this is one freaking big cow. Standing next to it, it's backbone is above my head by about a foot. Awesome cow.


I could have spent all day looking at the cow. I think I have developed an unhealthy obsession with it. But Chris called and was meeting me back at the car, so it was time to go.

The road back. Old Germantown.





Monday, January 2, 2012

A Whole Lotta Awesome (or, Chris and Ellen go to California)

The last few winters we stayed in Portland during the Christmas - New Year week. This year we decided to hit the road. Cycling club websites can provide good clues about riding routes and winter riding conditions. After some searching I found a cycling club in San Luis Obispo, CA.
  
What and where is San Luis Obispo?  "Set 200 miles north of Los Angeles and 220 miles south of San Francisco, San Luis Obispo is at the heart of California’s magnificent Central Coast. The city is sheltered by volcanic peaks a few miles from the Pacific Ocean and is surrounded by abundant protected open space, beyond which stretch vineyards, agricultural country and ranch land. A perfect Mediterranean marine climate keeps San Luis Obispo sunny and warm year-round, with cool nights. The temperature, which averages 70oF, rarely creeps above the 80s or below the 40s. The city receives about 22 inches of rain annually, meaning that the typical year sees 315 sunny days. San Luis Obispo occupies about 10 square miles at the foot of the southern Santa Lucia mountain range. With 80 miles of Pacific coastline, San Luis Obispo County spreads across more than 3,300 square miles east and west of the mountains. The landscape is one of pristine seas, wide beaches, pine-studded bluffs, oak forests, open grassland and chaparral-covered hills. Wildlife as diverse as sea otters and elephant seals, great blue herons and peregrine falcons, monarch butterflies and black-tailed deer make their home around SLO."


The SLO cycling club website lists dozens of rides with comprehensive route details and descriptions. After checking (and re-checking; and then checking again) the weather history for December, and then waiting literally until the week before our trip to commit to making lodging reservations (because one must never leave a rainy climate to go to another rainy climate) it looked like we had a winner: San Luis Obispo, here we come.


Or, rather, Paso Robles. Paso Robles is just on the other side of the Santa Lucia mountain range. It's a major winery hub. I'm guessing that about 100 wineries operate there. After much searching (our delay in making reservations to assure ourselves good weather meant fewer options), we reserved 5 nights at the Wild Coyote Winery in the hills above Paso Robles. 


Ironically, the Wild Coyote has a New Mexico flare to it. The owner, Gianni Manucci, has a thing for the Southwest, and he put much effort into replicating the look and feel of Taos for his home, the wine tasting room, and the five "casitas" he built for guests. So it felt more like visiting mom and dad in Santa Fe than being in California wine country. But that's okay because I like the Southwest too.


Wild Coyote Winery, back patio for the casitas
Wild Coyote Winery, entrance to tasting room

The setting was stunning. And very peaceful, except for the piped music that Gianni played over a speaker system inside and outside his tasting room during business hours. Luckily, we were gone every day during this time, so we were subjected to his music for only a few minutes during our entire stay.

Last May when we stayed on a vineyard in Sonoma we had the company of a local vineyard cat (VC) whom we nicknamed Chortles for the odd sounds that she made. Chortles liked cheese. A day after settling into the Wild Coyote, we met the resident VC when she bounded in our patio door. We nicknamed her Stubbs, for obvious reasons:

Wild Coyote's VC, aka Stubbs

Stubbs didn't settle just for cheese. She liked everything. Including french toast:


Stubbs, enjoying french toast
And sausage. Which she went at with abandon. We would have gotten a picture of it, but came to our senses and realized we ought to get that really large sausage out of her mouth before she hurt herself. 


It only took a few days for Stubbs to really make herself at home in our casita. Katie, the owner's wife, brought our breakfast by every morning at the ungodly hour of 8:30, and Stubbs would accompany her and dash in the door each morning to pick things over. I was usually still in bed at the time and Chris would have to fight off the cat for control of the poached pear or cream cheese and bagel. Then, later, I'd get to pick over whatever was left after the two of them were done. 


Stubbs, sleeping off breakfast
But I digress. We were there for the biking. Here is a summary of the Daily Riding Conditions:
* cold mornings/evenings
* peaking at 60-70 degrees 
* sunny (mostly)
* rolling hills
* vineyards
* more vineyards
* tasting rooms
* cows/horses
* country roads
* repeat 


The Rides:
* Vineyards / Peachy Canyon
* Coastal Hwy 1 / up Old Creek Rd. / down Santa Rosa Creek
* Husana Rd
* Vineyards / Chimney Rock / Peachy Canyon
* Hwy 46 / Coastal Hwy 1 / up Santa Rosa Creek Rd (Chris)
* Nacimiento-Fergusson Road out of Big Sur (Chris)


Ride Summary:
* Ellen: 4 rides, 163.6 miles, 12,239 feet of climbing
* Chris: 6 rides, 227.1 miles, 19,947 feet of climbing


Pictures:


























Other stuff we did:


Pismo Beach

Off the pier, Pismo Beach (can you find the two upside down feet in the surf?)

Harmony Headlands

Harmony Headlands

Driving over the Santa Lucia mountain range from coastal highway to Paso Robles, dusk

High Street Deli, SLO

Beach, between Cambria and San Simeon

Chris gets artsy

Elephant Seal

Big Sur

Big Sur

Big Sur; Chris's new surfer dude shirt